Rhonda Rohrabacher
Thursday, July 12, 2001

But look closer; the City of Angels is Tomorrowland, while everywhere else is just so yesterday.

With its mixture of Hispanics, Asians, African Americans and Anglos, Los Angeles boasts the world's most heterogeneous populace.

Here, you will find Mexicans, Salvadorans, Ukrainians, Thais, Israelis, Arabs, Armenians, Koreans, South Pacific Islanders, and an assortment of other nationalities that have trekked across half the planet to make their home in this megalopolis by the sea.

If there is a dominant characteristic of this indomitable metropolis, it is change. Half a century ago, the city was the territory of middle class folks from the Midwest. Today, those are hard to see.

Through the chaotic freedom of this city, one can wonder if the rest of America might look like this, 50 years from now.

The diversity of this City of Angels is far more widespread than its landscape and population. The world's first real international metropolis stretches from Santa Barbara almost to San Diego, and inland to San Bernardino and Riverside counties, encompassing mountains, desert and beaches.

During the winter months, hardcore boarders think nothing of surfing ocean waves in the morning and then carving some fresh powder in the local mountains on a snowboard in the afternoon.

All of this reminds us that it is California's beaches and temperate climate, and yes, its laid-back lifestyle, as well as its economic opportunities that attracted so many people from so many places.

The L.A. lifestyle also means not just working, hard but playing hard too. This does not preclude chilling-out out at the beach or a backyard BBQ, which is quintessential suburbia, a holdover that still prevails from the 1950s.

Not that long ago, smug East Coasters besmirched L.A. as a cultural backwater. Yes, Hollywood, as compared to past glory days, is today much more glitter than glamour. There is, however, much more to be excited about than L.A.'s joined-at-the-hip relationship with the entertainment capital of the world -- Hollywood.

Los Angeles is also a center of high technology, pharmaceuticals, and aerospace. It harbors some of the world's best universities, and the culinary delights of every flavor and nationality can be tasted at every price range. The L.A. club, music, and artistic scene is as cutting edge as any place in the world.

Global cultural trends often tend to originate in America, and American trends often begin in L.A. If it's happening anywhere in the world, you can find it in some shape or form in L.A.

Rootless Cosmopolitan Guide to L.A.

Orientation: L.A. is vast, so a good map of the county with its freeways is a must. To truly appreciate its size and scope, hike or drive up to Griffith Observatory and take a gander. (giffithobs.org.)

Known for its perfect right point surf break, Malibu is a colony of L.A. and home to movie and rock stars and entertainment industry executives.

This remote congregation is connected to L.A. by two umbilical cords; Topanga Canyon Road, through the Santa Monica Mountains, and Pacific Coast Hwy.

Malibu has very little to offer outsiders because the public beach area is relatively small and the number of restaurants and shops are limited; but it is picturesque and somewhat culturally historic.

On some days you can find the likes of Shirley MacLaine wandering through the local supermarket.

South of Malibu, and a half-hour west of downtown (at the end of the 10 freeway), is Santa Monica, a community that was born around its pier and beach. Today, its 3rd Street Promenade is a popular hangout for shopping, dining and playing by the beach.

To the south of Santa Monica is Venice Beach, which just two decades ago was a freak show to be visited, but not after dark. Today it is safer and more affluent as rich ageing hippies move in with their own form of gentrification.

Inland from Santa Monica, on the other side of the 405 Freeway, lies Westwood, home to U.C.L.A. It is dominated by college kids and wealthy Westsiders, who hesitate to venture into the hip frontiers further east in Hollywood, Silverlake, and downtown.

But Westwood in and of itself is self-contained with its movie theatres, yuppie restaurants and trendy chain stores.

Further east is Beverly Hills, one of the first enclaves of wealth and power in L.A., and home to movie stars and other elites. At a time when L.A. was infamous for lack of good restaurants, Beverly Hills boasted top-notch dining establishments. It also became a magnet for upscale shops and hotels, and exists as such to the present day.

Although other wealthy communities can be found in L.A., Beverly Hills has maintained its status. Contrary to past television shows such as "Beverly Hills 90210," this part of L.A. has little to do with young people, but everything to do with wealth and power.

East of Beverly Hills lies Hollywood, a name that is recognized around the world and in every language.

Since West Hollywood became its own municipality in 1984, Hollywood has been split in two. West Hollywood consists of gay-dominated Santa Monica Blvd, the Russian/Jewish Fairfax District and the trendy Sunset Strip. The rest of Hollywood consists of old Hollywood, with its main drag being the star-studded Hollywood Blvd., and further south, the hip core of La Brea Ave., Melrose Ave. and Beverly Blvd., where most of the cutting-edge shops, bars and restaurants are centered.

Southeast of Hollywood stretching southward from the junction of Wilshire Blvd. and Western Ave., is Koreatown, where Korean shop owners survived the 1992 riots, and good Korean massages and Bar BQs can be found.

South of Echo Park is downtown L.A., the historic core of the present day sprawling metropolis of L.A. county. It is a mix between old Art Deco buildings and ultra modern skyscrapers, buffeted by ethnic enclaves. The downtown streets themselves have been completely taken over by wave after wave of immigration from Mexico and Latin America.

Adjacent to downtown, are Little Tokyo and Chinatown. Little Tokyo is a good place to find high-quality sushi.

Chinatown is becoming increasingly hip as artists and designers flee the yuppification of downtown proper, and take over streets such as Chun King Road, a fascinating alley off Hill Street, that is colored with sleek new design boutiques next to classic post-war Chinese neon kitsch.

L.A. does not have an effective public transportation system. With no compact urban center, the limited rail system doesn't cover a network, and the buses take forever.

It is impossible to walk, as many destinations can be several miles apart. Taxis are not widespread and very expensive, so the only real way to see L.A. is by car. The network of freeways is extensive.

Where to Eat & Drink:

With a cross-section of virtually every religion and ethnic group on the planet, the mainstream culinary diversity is vast. Accordingly, some of the best of global cuisine is widely available throughout the city. Tacos and sushi are just as common weekly staples as is Vietnamese Pho (rice noodle soup).

For die-hard chain-smokers, L.A. can be your worst nightmare. With some of the most stringent anti-smoking laws on the planet, you'll be hard pressed to find any public venue, even bars and clubs, that will allow you to smoke in their establishment.

Nightlife:

With a resident movie star and wanna-be groupie population, getting in to some of the hip nite spots can be challenging. Many of the chic spots are as plastic as the people themselves. But if you still want to go, if not just for novelty's sake, an inside tip: Book yourself a room at a hip hotel. Most of the trendy hotels can book you a reservation at such hipster hangouts as the Skybar, so you can see and be seen.

Just make sure you let them know by the afternoon of the night you wish to play.

Last call at most every bar and club is 1:30 a.m., and you will be pushed out the door around 1:45 a.m. Don't despair, there are plenty of after-hour alternatives.

Venues vary from night to night. For the latest listings, pick up an LA Weekly at any newsstand, club fliers at any DJ shop, or check out ravelinks.com.

Copyright 2001 by United Press International. All rights reserved.